Travels in Thailand

My trip to Thailand seems like a distant memory now; however, I’ve only been back for less than six weeks.

This first trip was an assault on my senses, which produced a cocktail of happy, sad and somewhat ambivalent feelings. I was awe struck by Thailand’s beauty, saddened by the “people economy” and intrigued by its culture.

Thailand is a country going through change. East is definitely meeting west and the evolution becomes apparent as you analyse the contrasting buildings, in urban areas. Shopping malls are next to shacks; street food vendors now compete with air-conditioned, western franchises.

All the usual suspects can be found in the most developed areas. Their emergence is partly a by-product of the tourist industry; however, low prices led me to suspicion and consideration for the street vendors who were cooking outdoors in sweltering forty-plus temperatures.

I dined at local restaurants; food halls in the markets—and anywhere else rip-off taxi drivers took us. Over the first few days the cost of living and, more specifically, the cost of eating became apparent. The prices set by franchises were not purely catering for tourists—but locals also.

Supersize culture seems to be growing in Thailand: many of the chains I saw were up to their old tricks of selling excessive portions at unfeasibly low prices. In the UK and the US we have witnessed the adverse health problems incurred by people gorging on artery-clogging fast food. Health organisations, and our unforgiving media, cast their spotlights on the same fast food franchises, forcing them to produce healthier foods.

Thailand is rich with amazing local produce: fish, fresh fruit and rice are staple parts of the native diet. I hope these traditional diets are maintained and not tainted by processed, Lego food, churned in mechanic uniformity.

Mid-trip, en-route to Phuket, we stopped in Bangkok for an evening. With limited time and no concrete plans, my friends and I decided to walk towards the city centre. I could see the wirescape tidy itself and the shopping malls appear as we approached the centre of town.

A bustling Bangkok was paralysed by gridlock, due to an active red party demonstration. Inquisitively, we walked into the heart of the protesters area, which appeared to be intimidating at first but civil. I took pictures. Shook hands. People were welcoming.

A day later I arrived in Phuket to discover that the demonstrations had taken a violent turn and the authorities had sternly intervened.

We escaped a crushing by mere hours.

My time in Phuket was spent reading on the beach and visiting scenic must-dos such as Maya Bay. In transit, I was always taken back by the ubiquitous, uncontainable; yet lush vegetation that encapsulated any buildings that were not dutifully maintained.

I witnessed the silent war between nature and man-made structures: old, inhabited dwellings were tattooed with dark mosses and liken, whilst derelict buildings were being pulled under by clambering greenery.

Sat reading on my deck chair, I people-watched daily. Thai natives are very courteous and carefree: they have exceptional manners; ride motorcycles without helmets and drive cars without seat-belts. Families spend their evenings together at the beach; work provides a means to live and not a reason.

Everyday tasks and routines often begin with small religious ceremonies offering thanks to Buddha. Mini shrines and religious emblems can be found at the corners of sight, in every direction. My interest in these innate connections with Buddhism, spirituality and respect will form the grounds for a definite return to Thailand.